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The Battlefield

General Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia was in a state of jubilation as it moved northward towards Harrisburg in the summer of 1863. Confederate soldiers, who had been on reduced rations, entered a bountiful land untouched by the war, and they marched northward with little resistance and good weather.

General Hooker’s negligence in the pursuit of Lee distressed Washington. Discouraged by the lack of support from the War Department, Hooker requested to be relieved of command. His request was granted and Major General George Meade was appointed as his replacement. Meade immediately sent the army north to engage the enemy. On this same day, Confederate General Early, looking for supplies, entered the Gettysburg. One Union soldier was killed in the skirmish before Early moved on to Hanover.

On June 30, Confederate troops under Lieutenant General Hill left camp at Cashtown and marched east toward Gettysburg in search of supplies. The scouts spied Union cavalry south of town. Under orders, the Confederates returned to camp to report the information. The next day, Confederates headed to Gettysburg to determine the strength of the Union cavalrymen. The Battle of Gettysburg began early on the morning of July 1, 1863, when Union pickets west of Gettysburg observed a Confederate column heading toward them from Cashtown.


McPherson Farm
Between Route 30 West and Route 116 West

The McPherson Farm was where Brigadier General Buford's Cavalry Division camped while his pickets and scouts stood watch to the west. McPherson and Seminary ridges provided Union cavalry and infantry an excellent position to defend against Confederate attacks.

The first shot was fired by a Union cavalry officer around 8 a.m. The battle raged over the gently sloping farmland for rest of the day. The Union troops fell back to the McPherson Farm and more Union infantry arrived to hold back the Confederates.

The first officer to fall in the battle, Major General Reynolds was killed leading his troops in a counterattack that inflicted heavy losses on the Confederates.

That afternoon, the Confederate assault was renewed. General Heth sent two brigades to attack the McPherson Farm and fighting spread north and south along the ridge. The Virginia Brigade splashed through Willoughby Run and moved toward the McPherson Ridge, but was surrounded by Colonel Stone's Pennsylvania Brigade. From behind rail fences, Stone's men repulsed repeated attacks from the Virginians, who were pinned down by Union rifle and artillery fire. Support from the North Carolina Brigade was stopped when they ran into the Iron Brigade. After several hours of fighting and taking heavy losses, the Union regiments withdrew from the McPherson Farm to Seminary Ridge where they made one final stand. Then they retreated to Cemetery Hill in defeat at the arrival of additional Confederate reinforcements. After the battle, the McPherson barn was used as a hospital by the Confederate Southern Army (CSA).


Oak Ridge
From Route 30 West north to Oak Hill

CSA General Davis' Brigade flanked Cutler's Brigade near an excavated railroad bed and forced them to retreat to Seminary Ridge. The 147th New York Infantry was nearly annihilated as it did not receive the order to retreat and the Mississippians overran them. The Sixth Wisconsin Infantry issued a counterattack. Four hundred and twenty men began the attack but only half reached the railroad cut where the Confederates had taken refuge from Union fire. Davis' men were driven back after a struggle in the railroad bed while the Second Mississippi held their ground near their flag bearer. Corporal Francis Waller wrestled the flag bearer to the ground, and then continued to fight those Confederates who refused to surrender. Waller later received the Congressional Medal of Honor for the capture of the Second Mississippi's flag.

By 3:30 p.m., the entire Union line from here to McPherson Ridge had broken apart. Some troops made a final stand near the Seminary. Most Union soldiers were forced to retreat through Confederate fire in the streets of Gettysburg. As a rear guard, the 16th Maine Infantry was trapped and forced to surrender. One of three observation towers stands at Oak Ridge. This observation tower offers a panoramic view of the July 1 battlefield, Gettysburg College and the town.


Oak Hill
North of Mummasburg Road

Oak Hill, an important position for the Confederates, offered an excellent position for artillery. Guns sent shells into the Union positions at the McPherson Farm and Seminary Ridge with little opposition. At 1 p.m., General Rodes' Confederate infantry attacked the Union forces on the McPherson Farm and Oak Ridge. General Iverson's Brigade of North Carolinians moved southeast to strike the flank of Union positions on Oak Ridge. Union soldiers from General Baxter's Brigade engaged the Confederates. Confederate artillery on Oak Hill pounded the Union positions as General Rodes renewed his attacks. Outnumbered and finally out of ammunition, the Union troops abandoned Oak Ridge and were pushed south to the Seminary and through town.

On the summit of Oak Hill and surrounded by Confederate artillery guns, the Eternal Light Peace Memorial commemorates the historic battlefield. Union and Confederate veterans proposed the monument during the 25th Anniversary celebration in 1913, but it was not erected until 1938.


General Lee’s Headquarters
West Chambersburg Pike

General Lee was satisfied with the battle and believed that he was near victory. However, he understood the advantages of the new Union position on Cemetery Hill. The general rode to inspect the lines and garnered the information to devise strategy for the next day's battle. Lee set up his headquarters on Seminary Ridge, across from the Widow Thompson's house.


Seminary Ridge
From Route 30 West south to Pitzer Woods

The Lutheran Seminary is situated on the northern crest of Seminary Ridge. The Old Dorm on campus served as an observation post for both sides. On the morning of July 2, 1863, General Lee decided that Hill would continue as the Confederate centerline while General Longstreet's Corps would attack the Union left and General Ewell's Corps would attack the right. Ewell was close to the field that morning, but Longstreet was not. His men endured an 18-mile march to get into position on southern Seminary Ridge.


Cemetery Ridge
From Cemetery Hill south along Route 134 to Little Round Top

From the southwest edge of Cemetery Hill, Cemetery Ridge runs southward approximately 1½ miles to the Round Tops. It was a strategic position for infantry and artillery placed to cover the ground to the west from where the main Confederate attack threatened. East of the ridge, Taneytown Road was strategic for the movement of troops, artillery, and supplies throughout the Union line.


Cemetery Hill
Route 134 (Taneytown Road) and Steinwehr Avenue

Cemetery Hill is a prominent landmark on the northern crest of Cemetery Ridge. General Hancock rallied his defeated Union troops on this hill after the first day of the battle. The hill is covered with small pastures, bordered with stone fences. Overnight the stone fences became armed defenses while artillerymen dug in barricades. By the morning of July 2, Cemetery Hill was heavily fortified with its base ringed with infantry and three artillery batteries protecting the summit. Despite its strength, this position was nearly lost to a Confederate attack. The Union counterattack threw back the briefly victorious southerners and Cemetery Hill was secure.

The Soldier’s National Cemetery and the National Park Service Visitor’s Center are located here.


General Meade’s Headquarters
Cemetery Hill south along Route 134

On a southern slope of Cemetery Hill is a small white frame house that served as General Meade’s headquarters. The end of the first day appeared to be a humiliating Union defeat, but the defending soldiers had bought time for General Meade to concentrate his forces and bring reinforcements to Gettysburg. On the evening of July 2, General Meade’s corps commanders decided that the army should stay and fight. The Cemetery Ridge position was strong, and Meade ordered his army to retake the ground near Culp's Hill and wait for Lee's next move.


Peach Orchard
Emmitsburg Road

General Sickles decided take the higher ground on Emmitsburg Road, around the Peach Orchard at the intersection with Wheatfield Road. Against orders, he had moved away from the main Union line on Cemetery Ridge leaving the left of the Union army open to attack. Later, Longstreet's Confederate troops occupied the edge of Pitzer Woods. The left of his line was anchored by the Mississippi Brigade with the Georgia Brigade. Their objective was to attack the Union troops in the Peach Orchard. At 4 p. m., CSA artillery along this line opened fire on Union batteries stationed in the Peach Orchard. Despite the heroic efforts of two Union regiments to slow the charge, the Mississippians broke through the Union defenders and Sickles' exposed line collapsed. The Confederates pushed on to Plum Run. At the last minute, Union reinforcements moved into the battle, charged the Mississippians, and drove them back.

The observation tower in Pitzer Woods provides a panoramic view of the battlefield. The view from the tower shows the distance that Confederates had to cross to reach the Union lines in the Peach Orchard, the Wheatfield and at Little Round Top. The tower also overlooks the Eisenhower National Historic Site.


Little Round Top
West of Taneytown Road (Route 134)

The southern end of the Union line, Little Round Top had been manned by Union troops on the night of July 1. General Sickle’s advance left this strategic spot undefended until late in the afternoon of July 2. This station held a commanding view of the battlefield to the north and west. Prompt action by General Meade's chief engineer, General Warren saved this key position. As he surveyed the left flank, he realized the CSA could easily flank the Union positions at Devil's Den and capture Little Round Top. Warren ordered men to remain on the hill and wave flags until reinforcements arrived.

Colonel Vincent, from the Fifth Corps, redirected his march toward the Peach Orchard and rushed to cover Little Round Top. Alabama regiments of Law's brigade emerged from Big Round Top and rushed Vincent's men. The 15th Alabama Infantry engaged Colonel Chamberlain’s 20th Maine Infantry Regiment at the summit. As both sides ran low on ammunition, Chamberlain decided to take the 15th Alabama by surprise. At a distance of 30 yards, he ordered the bayonet. His men sprang forward upon the exhausted Confederates who were caught off guard by this audacious move and they retreated or surrendered.

On the opposite end of the line, the 140th New York Infantry led by Colonel O'Rorke to charged the 4th and 5th Texas Infantry Regiments. O'Rorke was killed by a bullet immediately after he gave the order to fire. The attack of the New Yorkers stalled the last CSA attack on Little Round Top, and the Confederates withdrew to Big Round Top.


Devil’s Den
West of Taneytown Road (Route 134)

Located ½ mile west of Little Round Top, this imposing rock formation separates Plum Run Valley from the Wheatfield. The huge granite cliffs were long considered a phenomenon by locals. Large rocks from six to fifteen feet high are thrown together with cavernous fissures and crevices. On the afternoon of July 2, Captain Smith's New York Battery assembled at the summit and to hold the left end of General Sickles' line. Confederates struck Devil’s Den from three directions. Repeated charges by the 15th Georgia and the 1st Texas Infantry weakened the position. Smith's artillerymen held back the surge of Confederates for two hours until the 1st Texas charged up the triangular field to take the summit and capture three of Smith's guns.


Wheatfield
Northwest of Devil’s Den

As the battle for Devil's Den raged, the last of General Hood's brigades charged toward the 19-acre Wheatfield owned by farmer George Rose. Fighting began at 4:30 when Brigadier General Anderson’s Georgia Brigade swept through the woods to the south and at a stone wall encountered Brigadier General deTrobriand's Union regiments, who kept the Confederates at bay for nearly an hour. As the fighting intensified, the Irish Brigade tramped through the Wheatfield to push the Confederates out. The brigade, which included the 116th Pennsylvania Infantry, endured 198 casualties during the battle in the surrounding woods. The fighting was often hand-to-hand combat. However, Southern forces were relentless, and the Union soldiers began to withdraw from the Wheatfield. The 17th Maine was ordered to about face and cover the retreat with a desperate bayonet charge. Finally, Brigadier General Wofford's Georgia brigade swept the field and the Confederates won the ground. The Wheatfield was one of the bloodiest sites on the battlefield. Charge and counterattack left this field and nearby woods littered with more than 4,000 dead and wounded soldiers.


Plum Run and Trostle Farm
United States Avenue

North of Devils' Den, the valley narrows into a rocky gorge cut by a stream called Plum Run. Union reinforcements battled Alabama and Georgia troops who had surrounded Devil’s Den to threaten the Union rear. Sword in hand, Colonel Perry ordered his 44th Alabama Infantry to charge the gorge. The battle lines surged until the exhausted Union troops were forced to retreat. The 9th Massachusetts Battery was ordered to cover the retreat until a new artillery line could be formed on Cemetery Ridge. The 21st Mississippi Infantry trapped the Massachusetts artillery. With the southerners on the verge of a breakthrough, Union reinforcements counterattacked. Three southern brigades stalled along Plum Run as the Union troops charged down from Cemetery Ridge. The five guns that were temporarily lost to the Mississippi Infantry were recaptured by Union troops the following day.


Culp’s Hill
Western edge of Cemetery Hill

Culp's Hill represented the right flank of the Union line at Gettysburg. Occupied on the evening of July 1, Union soldiers felled trees to build a strong line of breastworks. A network of trenches stretched from the summit to Spangler's Spring. The remains of these works still exist at Culp's Hill. At dusk on July 2, the Union troops positioned here heard Major General Johnson's Division headed in their direction at the eastern base of the hill. Johnson began his attack around 8 p.m. The firing ended at midnight, and Johnson requested reinforcements to wait for dawn to renew his attack. Union artillery began bombardment at 4 a.m., followed by the advance of Union regiments. Johnson's Confederates fought without the benefit of artillery support. The fighting continued for several hours. A Union attack near Spangler's Spring was beaten back and countered with a charge in an adjacent field by the 1st Maryland CSA. The 66th Ohio Infantry drove back Confederates within yards of the Union position. By 10 a.m., the Union counterattack had succeeded in driving out Johnson's men and Culp’s Hill was secure.


The Angle
Western slope of Cemetery Hill

On the morning of July 3, Union General Meade’s Army of the Potomac was formed into a curved line anchored along Cemetery Ridge. After the loss at Culp's Hill, General Lee altered his strategy. Lee decided to attack what he perceived to be a gap in Union’s centerline. He ordered a massive bombardment of the center. After two hours of bombardment, the Union guns fell silent, which was mistaken for a general withdrawal. At 3 p.m., 12,000 Confederate soldiers made their way up to "the Angle" at the Union center and halted. General Longstreet reluctantly commanded the last great charge of the battle. General Pickett's Division of Virginia soldiers, General Pettigrew’s Division and General Trimble’s two brigades made the initial charge. General Lee's last attempt resulted in the desperate and famous Pickett's Charge. The trail of the charge begins at Spangler Woods near the Virginia Monument, leads across a mile of open field, across the Emmitsburg Road, and up to the Angle. Here stands a small grove of trees and the High Water Mark of the Rebellion Monument, dedicated in 1892. The monument lists the commands of both armies that participated in Pickett's Charge.

Seven thousand Union soldiers were positioned in the area of the Angle. The last of Pickett's soldiers charged over the wall, and fighting was brutal hand-to-hand in the trees. The remaining Union batteries blasted away at the southerners. With no reinforcements or support, the Confederates could not hold the Angle and clump of trees. The left wing of Longstreet's attack failed to take Ziegler's Grove, a grove of oak and chestnut on the northern end of Cemetery Ridge held by General Alexander Hays' Division. Union artillerymen had set up their guns at the edge of the woods. Hays' men had a clear field of fire in three directions and successfully kept the Confederates at bay. There was nothing left for Pettigrew to do but order a retreat.
Gettysburg National Military Park
717- 334-1124

http://www.nps.gov/gett

Park grounds and roads are open daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.

 

 

 

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